Culture Shock In Kenya

Dr. William A. Twayigize

DR. WILLIAM

ENCOUNTERING CULTURE SHOCK IN KENYA

Captured in this photograph is an electric bus gracefully navigating the expressway in Westlands, Nairobi, Kenya. The visual contrasts evoke a poignant reflection on the passage of time. As my journey led me to Kenya in the year 2000, I recall a different landscape altogether – the very location where the impressive skyscraper now stands was once occupied by the UNHCR offices. This transformation encompasses the vivid memories of those days when the very spot was graced by flower bushes that offered me solace during my days as a street boy refugee, a poignant reminder of the remarkable journey that God has brought me this far.

Cultural Shock:

From the moment I stepped foot in Kenya, every facet of my surroundings appeared as an entirely new world, brimming with novelty. The diverse languages spoken, the distinct mannerisms exhibited by the locals, and the lively church services, all coalesced into an immersive cultural encounter that was unparalleled in my experiences. Coming from a background where Kinyarwanda and French held sway, I now found myself in a place where over 40 distinct languages seamlessly intermingled in everyday conversations. Despite my physical resemblance to the Kenyan populace, the polyglot nature of Kenyan society left me astounded; I was often left in a state of wonder as individuals effortlessly transitioned between languages, casting me into the role of an outsider, a role I was admittedly fulfilling. While I had been exposed to various languages while fleeing from one country to another, witnessing Kenyans masterfully utilize multiple languages without the constraints of tribal divisions was an entirely novel experience for me.

In my homeland of Rwanda, Kinyarwanda held its firm grip, while French assumed the role of a secondary language primarily accessible to those fortunate enough to receive an education. However, upon my arrival in Kenya, I was confronted with a vivid tapestry of linguistic diversity that painted a captivating portrait of cultural amalgamation. The seamless transitions between languages such as Kiswahili, Kikuyu, Kiembu, Dholuo, Luhya, Kigusii, English, and more, left me entranced, as communication itself seemed to transform into an intricate art form. Academically, Kenya boasts a total of 68 distinct languages, yet approximately 40 of these languages stand out more prominently due to the sheer number of tribal members associated with them.

Embarking on a journey into Kenyan cuisine unfurled yet another layer of cultural contrast before me. Emerging from a Rwandan community where vegetarianism was the prevailing norm, I had grown accustomed to a diet enriched by the presence of African vegetables like amaranth, Saga (also known as Sagaa, the spider plant), African Eggplant, African nightshade, Stinging Nettle, and an assortment of beans, maize, sweet and Irish potatoes, pumpkin, cowpeas, peas, and the staple Ugali – crafted from sorghum, millet, wheat, or maize. Our consumption of meat was a rarity, usually reserved for the grand occasions like Christmas, New Year, funerals of esteemed elders, and other special gatherings. However, a remarkable evening in Kenya marked the dawn of a new culinary frontier for me.

Sukumawiki “Kale”

Upon receiving an invitation to my friend’s home, I was taken aback when I saw my friend’s wife elegantly bringing forth kale leaves, locally known as Sukumawiki. As I observed her expertly cutting the kale on a wooden chopping board, an amused chuckle escaped me as I reminisced about my rabbit-related musings. Intriguing thoughts swirled through my mind as I considered the possibility of rabbits being kept as pets, a notion harkening back to my experiences in Rwanda where kale was often employed as rabbit feed. Such practices were common, particularly in our primary school where the school principal maintained a collection of rabbits to educate students on breeding for market purposes. Little did I anticipate that this seemingly humble leafy green held a pivotal role in Kenyan cuisine. As my culinary journey continued, the kale leaves underwent a transformative process through frying, ultimately gracing our table alongside the fragrant and savory goat stew, as well as a generous portion of Ugali. This harmonious fusion of flavors orchestrated a symphony on my taste buds, catalyzing a shift in my perceptions and broadening my culinary horizons within the realm of gastronomy.

However, it wasn’t just the flavors and languages that caught me off guard; it was the rhythm of life itself in Kenya that stood in stark contrast to the cadence I was accustomed to in Rwanda. Within Nairobi, the bustling city that had become my new home, the velocity at which people moved seemed worlds apart from the serene and deliberate pace that had shaped my previous experiences. Back in Rwanda, life embraced a leisurely stride; an air of tranquility and a dearth of urgency permeated the surroundings. Yet, in Kenya, especially within the vibrant pulse of Nairobi, existence appeared to unfold in an unceasing whirl of rapid motion. It was within this urban symphony of swift rhythms, where public transportation was accompanied by the blare of music and ceaseless horns, that I found myself immersed in a realm I had scarcely imagined existed right next door. Here, the concept of people minding their own business took on a nuanced meaning, offering a seemingly uncomplicated yet profoundly meaningful introduction to a capitalistic society where the pursuit of financial gain held an unparalleled significance, leaving me to ponder the intricate dynamics of a world where the pursuit of wealth encapsulated both everything and nothing else.

Presented here is a Maasai family from Kenya, an emblematic representation of the Nilotic ethnic group who inhabit diverse regions of northern, central, and southern Kenya, as well as northern Tanzania. Renowned on the global stage for their resolute cultural preservation, the Maasai have captivated attention through their distinct customs and striking attire. Their steadfast embrace of their heritage stands in contrast to the encroachment of Western influences, even in proximity to the abundant game parks surrounding the African Great Lakes.

Despite Kenya’s rich diversity with over 40 distinct tribes, a single defining dish does not encapsulate the culinary tapestry of each tribe. However, Ugali and Sukuma stand out as quintessential components of Kenyan cuisine. Ubiquitous across the nation, Ugali takes center stage as a staple food. Crafted from firm maize flour, this dish is celebrated for its simplicity and versatility. Often accompanied by the vibrant flavors of kale and robust beef stew, Ugali becomes a unifying thread that weaves through the varied tastes of Kenya’s gastronomic landscape

Nestled within the heart of Nairobi’s bustling Central Business District (CBD), the Aga Khan Walk stretch has emerged as a favored respite for many city dwellers. Commencing at Haile Selassie Avenue, adjacent to the Co-operative Bank building, it gracefully winds alongside Electricity House, weaving through the spaces between Uchumi House and Reinsurance Plaza before gracefully culminating at City Hall Way, beside Kencom House. The inviting pavements of this locale provide a popular resting spot, particularly for unemployed Kenyan individuals who frequently converge upon the CBD in search of job opportunities

Busy Nairobi

As I strolled through the bustling streets of Nairobi, a newcomer to the country, I was immediately struck by the purposeful stride of the pedestrians, their hurried paces reverberating with an air of perpetual urgency. This newfound swiftness stood in stark contrast to the life I had grown accustomed to before the war cast a shadow over my homeland of Rwanda. Like most Rwandans, I had embraced a pace of existence that prioritized moving through life with measured steps. In the days preceding the war, Rwandans epitomized a populace that spoke deliberately, seldom raised their voices, and reveled in a pace of life that revolved around family and community. Rooted in the Ubuntu philosophy, the essence of interconnectedness permeated our way of life. However, upon my arrival in Nairobi, I found myself navigating a different current. Even as I held onto my inclination for a more measured pace, Nairobi operated on its own terms. One indelible memory remains etched in my consciousness, a vivid recollection of a group of Kenyans walking briskly toward me, igniting momentary echoes of past traumas. In that fleeting instant, I was transported back to the tumultuous days when the specter of conflict loomed over Rwanda. I stood frozen, my heart offering up silent prayers for safety, only to later comprehend that it was a contingent of Kenyans caught up in their own urgent momentum. This encounter was a poignant embodiment of the Kenyan way of life, a perpetual rhythm that would continue to shape my perspective in the ever-moving tapestry of Nairobi’s urban landscape.

My journey through Kenya unfolded as a tapestry woven with moments of astonishment, reflection, and adaptation. The medley of diverse languages, the symphony of culinary delights, and the ceaseless pulse of the city collectively engendered a profound cultural shock within me. What initially commenced as a sequence of surprises steadily metamorphosed into a rewarding odyssey that not only broadened my horizons but also shifted the very foundations of my perspectives. Looking back, I am profoundly grateful to the people of Kenya and the land they call home. In a time when I was stateless, devoid of a homeland, kin, companions, and a foreseeable future, Kenya’s embrace provided sanctuary. It extended beyond just offering access to a multitude of opportunities that molded my journey, evolving into a second chance bestowed in the form of family and a chance to perceive the intricate beauty inherent in the kaleidoscope of human experiences. Kenya ceased to be merely a land; it became my haven, where I discovered a partner, raised children, and forged bonds with cherished friends.

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DR. WILLIAM

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Dr. William A. Twayigize

DR. WILLIAM